Weybread to Hopton-On-Sea 35 Miles. OS Explorer Maps 230, 231, OL40.

From the Orchard Cottage Campsite in Weybread, continue on Mill Lane – which is the lane opposite the campsite entrance heading east. At a junction go right and go left at the following junction. At the crossroads in Withersdale Street go right on a mainer road – Metfield Road. After half a mile look out on the right for a church, at Church Farm. This feels an ancient place and indeed, inside St Mary Magdalene (Michael Line, gallery) the font is made in pre-Norman style, which fits the timeless and simple ambience of the site.

Mary Magdalene font with tree of life.

Continue into Metfield. If you need a cafe/shop, in the village centre is an excellent community-run affair.  But if not, take the left turn at the beginning of the village – Christmas Lane, go left at the next junction, SP St James South Elmham. When you get to the village go right along Church Lane to see a gem of a church – not on either Line or Alignment! But as a St James – it behoves a pilgrim to not pass by… When I visited I saw a massive wooden dragon in the garden of the Old Rectory…I took it as a sign to carry on! (medieval St James relief, carved wooden panels, owls, font, Saxon windows, coats of arms)

Get back on the village road and carry on past Cuckoo Farm,  go left and then immediately right at the junction. A zigzag lane takes you to St Michael’s Green (Lion font, reredos) This church has a bench outside on which to ponder. It is a ‘thankful village’ – the only one in Suffolk to not lose any of its young men in the First World War. A roll in the church for the Second World War declared that ‘All returned safely’. Consequently it is the only parish in East Anglia without a War Memorial…

There are Commons here, still held and used by the locals, giving a feeling of space. Continue up the lane to St Peter’s South Elmham (Michael Line.) Then bear right and on your left is St Peter’s Hall, which is now a brewery (with shop!) and a restaurant.

St Peter’s Brewery.

After this the lane twists a bit before you go left on St Margaret’s Road to Bungay.  Cross a main road onto B1435, past a WW2 pill box and allotments. Bungay has a one-way traffic system. Go left for shops and left again at the roundabout to find a friendly cycle shop.  Further along is a fine cafe and a health food shop. If you go even further to the Castle Inn (rooms, 01986 892283) by walking behind it – a pathway will lead you up to the substantial remains of Bungay Castle. (http://www.bungay-suffolk.co.uk/activities/castle.asp)

Bungay has a library, swimming pool, museum and theatre, it offers many walks and canoeing on the River Waveney, as well as a wild swimming spot at Falcon Bridge. There is a campsite on the edge of town to the NW (https://www.outneymeadow.co.uk/)

To continue on the route; take the one-way system back to the roundabout, take the 2nd left Trinity Street, past a chapel and church  then it joins the Beccles Road which brings you out onto the B1062. After a scant quarter mile there is a left turn with a right turn straight off it – and a blue weight restriction notice – take this smaller lane towards Geldeston. (Low Road) go along the valley and take the next left, Mill Pool Lane. Over the River Waveney then past an old mill with its pool opposite. Join a lane and bear right, past the church, and keep on past grain silos. In the hamlet of Dockeney, on the right, a track leads off – it has a sign ‘The Locks Inn’ – ‘it would be rude not to’ – as my husband always says! at the end of the track is a wonderful proper archaic pub – no mains electric, good ale and some food. What a lovely place! 

Oh yes!

Return to the road and go along into Geldeston. There is a campsite somewhere to the right (https://threeriverscamping.co.uk/find-us.php) when you reach the village, turn right and The Wherry Inn will be on your left. (wherryinn.co.uk)

At the end of the village take the next right and wiggle along until you come out at a T junction in Gillingham, go right and left at the main road. (Swan motel to right if needed, rooms,food http://www.gillinghamswan.co.uk/ ) There is a Cycle Route 31 sign to follow, up the road it goes off left into the woods, over the A146 and through the Gillingham Estate, it passes three churches in a row – the Catholic Our Lady of Succour, St Mary’s and the ruins of All Saints. Take care crossing the A143, go straight over on the cycle path which then puts you on the Raveningham Road. Follow this past Rose Farm (where you cross the Alignment) then after about two miles go left. (Craft Centre and Cafe on left, open 10-4pm daily except mon/tues) This is to visit Raveningham Hall that has beautiful gardens open on certain days and is home to St Andrew’s church (Mary Line, 12thC, listed, memorials, font, brasses) Info on opening hours can be found at http://raveningham.com/gardens/raveningham-garden-opening-times/ or from  Sonya Roebuck on 01508 548480/E-mail: sonya@raveningham.com)

 There is a path  giving public access to the church for those not visiting the garden. 

So – if you do not want to visit Raveningham, just go right at the next junction – a crossroads. To visit Raveningham go left at the crossroads and follow the lane round to the entrance. 

Leaving Raveningham return to the crossroads, going straight across and straight across the next crossroads. Take the next right turn through Maypole Green, keep left at the triangle, then past Church Farm Cottages where you cross the Mary Line again and continue along until St Margaret’s church (wooden corbels, octagonal tower) where you turn left. Look out for a small farm shop with enormous eggs! You will come out on the A143, go left on the busy road, although there is a bumpy path on the other side if needed. This will bring you along into Haddiscoe, with St Mary’s Church on the left (Mary Line, wall paintings). As you drop down the hill at the end of the village there is a pub and campsite on the right. (Pampas Lodge Campsite  01502 677265)

An unavoidable two miles of busy main road follow – at least it is flat! When you reach the bridges over the River Waveney and New Cut there is a cycle path which comes as a relief…

View over the cut.

 There is a pub on the right (The Bell Inn 01493 488249, bellinn-stolaves.co.uk)

Take the next right after the pub (Byway/private road/Priory Road) go left after about 200 metres, this track narrows to a pathway through the woods and emerges onto the B1074/Herringfleet Road. Go right and then next left which takes you through a wooded area, after another mile or so you will find Ashby Hall Farm. If you wish to bypass the next off-road section, take the next right, and right again at the T junction and then next left into Back Lane. 

Otherwise, go right through the farm, on a byway and SP to the church. Cross another track but keep straight until you find the delightful, round-towered, thatched church of St Mary (Mary Line) Outside it there is a poignant memorial to some American Airmen who died nearby. Retrace your steps to the junction with another track and go right. This is the oddly-named Snake’s Lane – so keep a look out!  It is a pretty path anyhow…

In less than a mile you will come out in Lound, next to The Village Maid restaurant (01502 730441) and a cafe to the right (open 9.30-4pm daily exc tues/sun) (also Valley House Camping and Caravan cert. campsite 01502 730416 go right then 2nd left, keep left into Market Lane).

But for our route you go left (through the Mary Line) and take the next right – Back Lane.

Along Back Lane through Cuckoo Green, left at junction, then keep right, to the busy A12, cross with caution. Go straight ahead into Hall Road, go right and on your right is the modern replacement St Margaret’s Church (Mary Line, Burne-Jones stained glass, coffee tues am)

Take the next left Station Road and follow till it bends sharply right and on your left will be our last and best church on this pilgrimage route – the original St Margaret’s Church  – the ruins of which are well looked after and accessible, set in a lovely peaceful garden. (Michael and Mary Lines and the Alignment, signpost, dowser’s plaque) The thatched church burnt down in 1865, an old stove went out of control. It was neglected for many years but then local people came together to make it a cherished part of the town once more – holding a Medieval Fayre to raise funds and awareness. 

It is a beautiful and fitting end to an awesome pilgrimage route that has brought us across England from the far west of Cornwall, along lanes, tracks and ancient pathways, through hamlets, villages, towns and cities visiting sacred places of modern and ancient times – all entwined together by the writhing, pulsating energy leys that we call the Mary and Michael Lines….

But perhaps not the very end…?  The Lines and Alignment all cross at this ruined church before leaving the British Isles, but if you would like to dip your toes – or more  – into the ocean where they leave… then turn right out of the churchyard, go right at the corner into Warren Road, which is well named as you find yourself in a warren of a holiday park – take a deep breathe and follow signs for the beach. Steps and a path lead down beside the caravans onto a lovely sandy beach, where you can dowse the Lines leaving our shores…..

Pilgrimage completed… and what a stunningly beautiful country we are lucky enough to live in….

And yes – I did!

Bury St Edmunds to Weybread. 39 Miles OS Explorer Maps 211, 230.

Bury St Edmunds.

The Cathedral is in the centre of town (Mary, Michael and Alignment Lines. St James, stained glass, cafe, https://stedscathedral.org/) Adjacent is the Abbey remains and gardens. (Michael, Mary and Alignment Lines. free, https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/bury-st-edmunds-abbey/) 

There is a medieval museum (https://www.moyseshall.org/)  Tourist offices are in the Cathedral and in the main shopping mall, The Apex. (https://www.visit-burystedmunds.co.uk/directory/places-to-stay)

Markets are held Wednesdays and Saturdays and a farmer’s market every second Sunday. There is a launderette in Horringer Road/A143  by the Ouida Memorial. Just north of there in Hospital Road is a fantastic, old-fashioned ‘proper’ pub – The Dove. No lager, no machines or noise, just ale and cider and good company, also sits on the Michael Line…

Follow Angel Hill from the Cathedral/Abbey northwards, it bends around the Abbey grounds becoming Mustow Street, go past The Fox Inn and over the River Lark, then becoming Eastgate Street. Past The Greyhound, up the hill under the A14, a little further up the hill and go right on the Cycle Route 13 – traffic is against you so stay on the cycle path. It leads up the hill (Mount Road) and becomes a wide path above the road. Keep going along here, across a roundabout, the cycle path may change sides (there is a lot of new building going on) and becomes Cycle Route 51 again. SP to Thurston it crosses the road again and veers off left up a small track. This leads to a ramped bridge over the railway and into the village of Thurston. At the road there is a shop and pub ( 01359 232228) to the right, but turn left and as you get to the edge of the village turn right up Mill Lane. At next right after a short bit of lane, go across a road and onto Sheep Lane Track, this leads through woods and when you emerge onto a road, go left, which will take you into Pakenham. Pakenham is the only village which still has a watermill and windmill in working order!  You pass St Mary’s Church as you plummet down the hill (Mary Line, font) at the bottom (pub and PO to left) turn right along Bull Road. As you cross a bridge over the Black Bourn the Mary Line crosses the road.  Go straight over the crossroads and into Stowlangtoft, where the Mary Line passes through the church of St George. (Mary Line. Poppyheads, pews, font, stained glass. Open daily.)

St George’s Church with ancient masonry reused in wall.

Carry on along the lane, when you get to Hunston, turn left, after a few hundred metres you will see a public foot-path next to a Walled Garden, that will lead you to St Mary’s Church, usually locked, but castle ditches and moat as well as the pedestrian access give it a romantic air. (Mary Line)

Take the next right turn and follow it to the end, turn left and at the following  T junction, go right. (but if you need a campsite there is one at Bardwell less than 3 miles to the left  http://www.bardwell-equestrian.co.uk/cam9ping.html) This is the Ixworth Road into Walsham Le Willows. (Another campsite is less than three miles to the north from here – left at j – https://lingsmeadow.co.uk/) As you cross over a road into the village, St Mary’s Church is on your right (Mary Line, Alignment) a pub to your left and further on a PO and cafe. Walsham is unusual in that it has been inhabited since the Mesolithic times. (https://www.walsham-le-willows.org/explore/history/a-brief-history/) 

Carry on through the village, on the Finningham Road, past Cranmer Green and when you arrive at a junction with a triangle, go left on the B1113, a little way later go right on Mill Lane, this will bring you along to another T junction where you go left and zigzag into Gislingham. There is a pub the Six Bells Inn (01379 783349) and a shop/butcher/cheesery that is open on Sundays too. Follow the Thornham Road out of the village to the right, past the church of St Mary. After going under the railway ( and passing another campsite swattesfieldcampsite.co.uk) you come to Thornham Park on the left. This is open daily and has walks, a cafe and toilets.  Carry on along the road and go left at the next corner to find the church of Mary Magdalene on the left. (Michael Line. Burne Jones windows, memorials, possible green man on porch, many yew trees) If you need good food retrace your steps back down the lane and into Thorton Magna village where at the next junction the Four Horseshoes is excellent and has accommodation (01379 678777)

Otherwise continue northwards from Mary Madgalene’s quiet church, turning left at a junction. Take the next right to visit the exquisite thatched church of St Mary at Thornham Parva.(Michael Line. Wall paintings of St Edmund, retable, gallery, glass…) Surely one of the loveliest churches existing?

(for a campsite continue east to end of road, go right on A140, then next left http://www.frogshallcamping.co.uk/)

Go left  from the church back to the lane and then right, follow to junction with larger road and go right into Yaxley. On the corner is the Cherry Tree Inn (01379 788050) The route takes the next left after the corner – but first a quick digression to St Mary’s Church further down the main road on the left. (Michael Line. Woodwose and giant on porch, stained glass, rood screen, Sexton’s wheel) Opposite it is a handsome Arts and Crafts house. 

The  Woodwose and giant on porch, Sexton’s wheel and Arts and Crafts House.

Return towards the Cherry Tree Inn, turning right about a 100 metres before the corner onto Eye Road. At the end of the road you cross the busy A140, the cycle-path takes you across the widest part…then an overgrown section on the far side spits you back onto the road… So its a left, then immediate right onto Castleton Way, the road into Eye. After a mile or so you come to a T junction, go right. Eye has shops, cafes, pubs and a library. Cycle along and go left on Castle Lane, look up to the left to see the said castle remains, then look for the church just off to the left. The church of St Peter and Paul (Michael Line, windows, dado, dole table.) is large and full of interest, there is a sturdy half-timbered building to the north that was the former Guildhall. 

Continue out of town on the B1117, passing a nature reserve on the right, a mile or so further turn left at Burnt House Farm (eggs, meat) follow this road for about 2 miles, (passing Home Farm where the Hoxne Hoard was found) into Hoxne village. You pass The Swan Inn and a deli/cafe before reaching a junction up the hill. Go right and immediately left onto the church drive, up to another St Peter and St Paul. (Michael Line) This one is a large church also, feeling a little like a medieval hall, it houses an interesting local museum and exhibition of the famous Hoxne Hoard. Most intriguing is the bench end, on the north side seemingly piled up, that depicts a wolf guarding St Edmund’s head at his martyrdom. It is by this village that this was supposed to have happened…

Outside a large area is well planted with specimen trees.

Continue eastwards along the road to Green Street, where you go left by Dairy Farm. In about a mile, after Church Farm, go left on a track next to a large cross and a cottage called ‘Serendipity’! This leads to Syleham church. Sitting serenely on the floodplain, St Margaret’s (Michael Line, font) has an awkward shape, with an incongruous round tower but still manages to look like the perfect English church. The atmosphere is wonderful.  The Earl Bigod apparently  surrendered his loyalty to King Henry II here in 1174 – which is what the large cross by the road commemorates…

St Margaret’s Syleham.

Return to the road and continue eastwards past Syleham Manor, staying on the Hoxne Road which becomes Wingfield Road, after approximately two and a half miles, just after a sewage works on the left, you come to a junction with a triangle, turn sharp right SP Fressingfield and Laxfield. After a little while this joins a larger road (B116 – A Roman Road!) into Weybread. To visit St Andrew’s church (Michael Line. Green man, round tower) go right opposite the bus stop down Church Lane. Beside the church is a small vegetable stall/shop.

Return to the main road, go right and take the next left into Mill Lane, at the end of which, on the right, you will find one of my favourite campsites! A lovely setting, not manicured, cheap and great facilities as well as friendly owners – it is the epitome of a proper campsite. (http://www.orchardcottagecamping.co.uk/)

There are a couple of pubs and a shop in Fressingfield just over a mile to the south on the B1116.

 

 

Wandlebury to Bury St Edmunds. 35 Miles OS Explorer Maps 209,210, 211.

After exploring the rich layers of history and nature at Wandlebury – the Gog Magog Hills, Iron age fort (bathed in the Mary Line), 18thC buildings, horse grave, tumuli and Wormwood Hill…. Follow the main path through Round Clump which heads eastwards, and then meets a bridleway  on which you turn left.

Back on the bike – in beautiful beech woods.

This bridleway down the beech avenue  leads you to a kissing gate – but to your right is a gap onto the track – turn right and you are on the Via Devana – a Roman road that once led from Colchester to Chester . (https://www.routeyou.com/en-gb/location/view/48005612/via-devana) you only follow this for a short while, as you take the next left track (opposite Copley Hill – a tumulus), this becomes a tarmac road and leads into Fulbourn.  Fulbourn has a range of shops, three pubs, a library and some guest houses (http://www.information-britain.co.uk/county34/townguideFulbourn/) Go straight over the staggered junction, pass the church on your right, around a couple of corners and over a level crossing.  This Wilbraham Road leads into Great Wilbraham which has a pub, The Carpenter’s Arms.  At the end of the village , where the road goes left – you go right on a byway – Butt Lane, which then bears left, and heads across the fields, emerging onto the Wilbraham Road again, where you turn right. Go under a bypass and then at Six Mile Bottom you cross the busy A1304, (there is a Spar shop to your right). Carry on for about two miles and then just after Chalk Pit Farm turn left, SP Westley and Newmarket. In less than a mile a small digression up the lane to the right takes you to the village of Westley Waterless. Turn right for the small 12thC church of St Mary the Less. (Mary Line)

Return to the main lane and carry on into Dullingham. At the junction go right, following Station Road to the crossroads with the B1061. To visit the church go right and then left opposite a pub up a small lane. The church lies in a leafy yard at the top. (St Mary – on Mary Line! open 10-5pm)

Go right from the churches lane and right at the crossroads heading east. (past another pub) Here you have a choice: to visit another church on the Mary Line, follow the road left up to Stetchworth, taking a right to the Stetchworth Park Stud where you will find the church of St Peter. (Mary Line) if when returning you keep left at the fork you will rejoin the Icknield Way Path and the other variant. Alternatively, as you leave Dullingham go right and then left up a bridleway – past Cross Green B&B, this takes you eastwards to cut the corner off to the Stetchworth Lane/Icknield Way Path, that then leads into Ditton Green. Go straight across the crossroads SP Saxon Street. At the junction turn right into Saxon Street (go past the Reindeer Pub open weds eves and sun afternoons for good ale) slight uphill, then long downhill, look out for Hall Farm Cottages on the left, just after is a track, left, to an interesting church, near to but not on the Mary Line. All Saints church is a ‘Little Pilgrimage’ place so it is open daily for prayer/contemplation/peace. It has some 11thC fabric, a green man and an intriguing tomb where the incumbent rests his feet on a rather perky looking dragon!

c1170 doorway at All Saints, Kirtling.

Further down the road the Mary Line does indeed pass through the church of Our Lady With St Philip Neri, but it was locked when I visited. Carry on along the road and after a left bend take the next left turn to Upend. As you come into the village take the right turn which takes you along the valley on a small lane to a T junction. Go right and look out on your left for footpath signs, take the 2nd one – which is actually a farm track that leads to St Mary’s Church at Lidgate. (Mary Line, medieval graffiti, stained glass).  There are old motte and bailey remains behind the church, which are thought to have been built by King Stephen in his campaign against Geoffrey de Mandeville. Follow track downhill from church past the Bailey pond and go left on the road, this passes the Lidgate Star Inn, a ‘hall house’ it serves food and ale. (http://www.lidgatestar.com/)

A little past the pub is a left turn called Bury Lane, after a few houses it peters out into a grassy pathway.

Bury Lane.

Follow around the field until a footpath goes off left, bear right up a ‘tunnel’ path of sloes, keeping slightly uphill for about half  mile until, next to a phone mast, you pop out onto a lane. Go left down the lane and at the end, by Genesis Green Stud, go right, at the next corner go left, up past Newhouse Farm and take next right through Baxter’s Green. (there is a small sign hidden in the hedge for Depden and Chedburgh) At the end of the lane go right and the next left opposite a water tower. After a slight bend left, by some large willow trees a track leads off left up past a row of houses. Take this and it will again turn into a green tunnel path…then opens up and joins a lane.  Go right, past Chevington Stud and into Tan Office Green, go left and follow the Chedburgh Road into Chevington.

Go straight across crossroads (Greyhound pub to left, Asian and English food.) Keep on, joining another road, keep right – you are now on the Cycle Route 51, which takes you into Little Saxham.  St Nicholas Church is on your left (Mary Line, poppyheads, round tower.)

Go right at the junction on Westley Road, still the Cycle Route 51 – this can take you straight into Bury St Edmunds. OR, you can look for the bridleway left after about half a mile, then after a few hundred metres look for a pathway track across the field to Westley hamlet. (This is not a specified cyclepath or bridleway so one should ask permission (or forgiveness!) and/or push the bike.)  As you reach the end of the field, a small path leads right into a peaceful glade where the ruined church of St Thomas A Becket sits bathed in the Mary Line energy… there are benches and fruit trees  – it is a lovely setting. Return back to the path through the field and continue to the road, go right, passing a more modern church – St Marys. (Mary Line) At the end of the lane go left into Bury St Edmunds. When you reach a roundabout next to the Regimental Museum, go right and follow the cycle path to town centre.

Bury St Edmunds.

Royston to Wandlebury 19 miles. OS Explorer map 209.

Leave Royston by retracing your steps back up the A10, straight back over the large roundabout, still on the A10, then after a scant kilometre, go right on a by-way, this track leads you in to Melbourn village. There are pubs, a deli, bakery and Coop shop all before you get to the church of All Saints on the left. This has the Mary Line passing through. It has a marvellous stained glass window depicting St Michael, St George and St Martin, also a sign welcoming those of any faith…

There is another shop and then on the left The Hub – a community cafe with snacks and drinks and friendly locals. Further along as you leave the village there is a Plant Nursery with a tent shop which serves reasonably-priced meals. There is a lane off to the right which has a campsite 1/4mile along it. (http://www.sheprethmill.co.uk/index.php) After that the road bends left to meet the A10 again, but you go straight on down a lane past The Green Man pub.

Unable to pass a Green Man – or a pub!

The lane soon rejoins the A10 with a cyclepath on the left hand side. Take the 2nd right turn SP Foxton. Pass a pub, shop and PO to the church on the right – St Laurence, which the Mary Line goes through. Go back to the PO and turn right, that road will rejoin the A10 at a level crossing.  There are seperate gates for bicycles each side. There is a cycle path on the left side of the A10 that takes you into Horston. Pass a Thai restaurant on the left, then the pretty village green with spring water well. 

Take the next right SP Newton, up over a level crossing, Rowley’s Hill with strip lynchets on your right, past the Old Windmill, then a right turn in the village of Newton just to visit the church of St Margarets bathed in the Mary Line. This is a lovely little church with the most beautifully-crafted copper memorials…

Return to the village where the Queen’s Arms pub serves excellent beer and food and is simply one of the very best pubs I have ever had the pleasure to visit… ((01223) 870436)

Take the Whittlesford road (in front of pub) eastwards, after a couple of bends look out for a bridleway  on the left. It becomes a wide, gravelled track, with a dogleg taking you over the motorway then straight on again until you get to a road. Go left into Little Shelford (keep right at the fork) when you get to the corner, go right, to Great Shelford, pass over the Cam river, take the next right, which leads you past lots of shops, a deli/cafe with wifi, a cash machine and library.  Go across the main road, over another level crossing, and turn right just up the hill a bit. This takes you past St Andrew’s church (Mary Line) take next left and then after a few zigzags, at a t junction go left. The hill climbs slowly toward Magog Down. You can continue to the t junction and take the cyclepath right, or cut the corner off by using the footpath on the right just after the houses.  This delightful path leads across Magog Down through flower-filled meadows and is well worth pushing your bike through. At the far end go right and look for the gap at which you can cross the very busy A1307 dual carriageway, over to the Wandlebury Country Park. 

Wandlebury.

Open daily from dawn to dusk, free to cyclists/walkers. Miles of walking trails on the Gog Magog Chalk Hills. An Iron Age fort, Roman roads,  18thC buildings, possible chalk-cut figures, much to explore. (https://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=4545) Cambridge is about three miles north of here. 

St Andrews kneeler showing the chalk figures.

Chinnor to Luton. 38 Miles OS Explorer Maps 181,193.

Strictly speaking, Chinnor is a village not a town so it does not have so many facilities. Continue straight ahead into Mill Lane and when you get to a junction at a main road, go right. (there is a shop/off license to the L) This is Station Road and takes you past playing fields, a library to the L, then there is a cafe/bookshop on the R (open 9-5 daily, 4pm suns) When you get to the roundabout, go L into Church Road, (Crown pub on roundabout, open daily, food 01844 351244) Further along on the right is St Andrews Church (Mary Line, stained glass, pulpit) at the end of the road are a row of shops (convenience, butchers, bakers, pharmacy, Indian rest.)

Lovely Carvings On St Andrews Pulpit, Chinnor.

Go right on the corner by the shops, into Keen Lane, which takes you out of the village and turns into a track – you go over the railway line (take care) and up the hill to join the Ridgeway once again – although here it is known as Swan’s Way.

Go L and meander along the undulating track through the forest. At the signpost keep L, (ignore footpaths to L) at the next signpost go L on a downhill track called ‘Midshire’s Way’ this is also someone’s driveway and has a loose stony surface so use caution! At the bottom join a bridleway, go L and into the village of Bledlow. The 16thC Freehouse The Two Lions (food, ale 01844 343345) is on your R, keep R through village. A little way after passing the church (Holy Trinity 12thC, wall paintings) there is a beautiful garden on the left.

Lyde Garden is open to the public free from 9-5 daily. Created by Lord Carrington it is a sunken water garden skillfully built around a series of sacred springs. (http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=11064, http://www.carington.co.uk/gardens/lyde-garden/)

A more serene and peaceful place would be hard to find!

At the end of the road go R and then take the next L, down past some houses to a T junction, go L and then over the railway keeping L into Princes Risborough. At the next junction go R, which will bring you into the centre of town.

Princes Risborough:

You will find a Coop on the left before you get to the centre, then a library also on the left. There is a wide range of shops, pubs and eateries, a railway station and a Cycle shop situated in Church Street. The ‘Pudding Stone’ (http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=15496) a possible waymarker for prehistoric man, is set at the side of the roundabout at the end of the main road.

If you turn left before this – into High Street, you will find most of the shops. There is a handsome market building on the left, (Church St to the L leads to cycle shop and St Marys church 12thC) but bear right to the next roundabout. To the right is the unusual Catholic church of St Theresa. Go straight across the roundabout onto the A4010 SP Aylesbury. Follow this busy main road out of town. There is almost always a path at the side. You pass Peters Lane on the right, which leads up to the Whiteleaf Cross. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whiteleaf_Cross)

There is an Indian restaurant just after a roundabout (Coco Tamarind 01844 343111) and further along a cafe (The Potting Shed open daily 01844 275284) on the right at a Nursery. After about a mile you come into Great Kimble where the church of St Nicholas (13thC, Mary Line, wall paintings) is on the left. (“The 13c. church of St. Nicholas, Great Kimble, has an unusual place in English history.  It can be said that the English Civil War started here in 1637 when John Hampden refused to pay Ship Money to the King’s tax collectors.”)

A few hundred metres further on, just off to the right is All Saints church of Little Kimble. (Mary Line, wall paintings)

The area to the right of the main road between the Kimbles is rich in history and monuments – there is Cymbeline’s Castle motte and bailey, a Beacon Hill, two prehistoric cross dykes, another motte and bailey, a moated site and remains of a Roman villa…. all this and Chequers (the PMs residence) over the hill!

On past Little Kimble railway station, after just over a mile we come to a roundabout. Take the B4009 SP Wendover, which is also called Nash Lee Road, there is a garage on the L. You will pass the Chiltern brewery on the R (open daily 01296 613 647) The path beside the busy road now gives out and there is no alternative to getting in with the traffic – but only for about half a mile – take the first (unsigned) road on your left. This takes you along and under a railway, but unfortunately you have to then cross the busy A413. (if traffic is too heavy there is a roundabout to the left) Once across the road, peace reigns again and there is a farm shop on your right. ( kingsfarmshop@btconnect.com, 01296 622014) This area is called World’s End…which may have had an effect on the pub at the end of the road which is presently closed! (The Village Gate) Go straight across the main road into World’s End Lane, and into the village of Weston Turville. Take the first right – and if you wish to visit the church (St Mary 13thC, Mary Line, ancient stone coffins, unusual gate) the next right as well.

Otherwise continue to where the road goes sharply left into Bates Lane (past the Chequers pub (01296 613298) at the next junction go right, (to the left is the Five Bells, food, rooms 01296 613131 and The Chandos Arms, food, 01296 613532) When you get to a roundabout there is a convenience store and a takeway on the left (takeaway 5-9.30 daily exc suns), go left into New Road and follow till you get to the where you join the A41. (Holiday Inn on R 0871 942 9002) Go L (path!) and at the next crossing go right onto Broughton Lane. This leads to the canal, passing Oak Farm on the right, which has a campsite (01296 709737/07790 833903) Just before the canal a car park on the right gives you access to the canal path.

If you wish to visit the historic market town of Aylesbury you can go left along the canal. (where Michael Line passes through Holy Trinity church, the Catholic Guardian Angels church and the Cemetery chapel!)

The canal path is excellent to start off with! After a couple of miles there is a road bridge across (and a nature reserve off to R) then the path is reduced to mud and grass with plenty of roots and even steps at the next two bridges…

After Blackjack Lock 3 you come to the village of Marsworth.

If you require a cafe or pub – carry straight on and after going under a road bridge you will find Bluebells cafe on the R. (open 10-5 daily 01442 891708) Through the car park to the road and on the other side is The Angler’s Retreat (food, ale, B&B 01442 822250)

A Warning Against the Perils of Staying at the Pub Too Long!

OR – come off the canal at the first small road bridge and go L on Watery Lane, cross the canal again (it forks here) into Church Lane and continue up the hill to the church of All Saints (Mary Line) turn L into Vicarage Road and pass the Red Lion pub (food, ale, 01296 668366) before rejoining the canal after the bridge, go L under the bridge and continue along the canal path, which is now narrow but more even.. After a good mile(and past a couple of locks) there is a car park on the left, exit here, at the road, go R over the canal (Waterside Cafe to L, 07769 961196) and take the next L turn, under the railway, into Pitstone village.

At roundabout go L, along here is a general store ‘Masons’. Continue along the road through Brook End and around the bends into Ivinghoe. There is a pharmacy on the right, an extremely good community cafe on the left (open daily ½ day wed, 07775 831153) a PO/shop and library on R and a pub – the King’s Head (01296 668388) across the green. A lovely village – the church – St Marys is on the R after the shop. (Mary Line, poppyheads, green men, witches and mermaids!)

Take the road that passes alongside the church B488 and around the corner go L onto B489 SP Dunstable/Ivinghoe Beacon. Busy road with small path at side. Town Farm further on does camping for £10 a night. (01296 668455) Ahead you can see the enigmatic Beacon Hill where the Alignment and Mary Line converge. If you take the next R turn there are paths on your L that lead up there (the Ridgeway/Icknield Way! Tumuli/Iron Age fort)

Beacon Hill From Dunstable Downs. 

There is a choice of two routes next. Firstly a mostly off road route which meets the alternative main road route at Dunstable Downs Visitor Centre car park, secondly a busy main road route.

So, for the first option – carry on along the B489 until just after a L turn to Ivinghoe Aston – look on the right side of the road and you will see a signposted bridleway going away at an angle. Follow this across the end of Gallow’s Hill (past tumuli), bear R when you meet another track. It zigzags round a few field boundaries before emerging onto the A4146, where you go R. You come into Dagnall village. (Red Lion, food, ale, 01442 843020and Munns Farm Shop 07976 224781 just after the roundabout) At the roundabout go L and take the next R into Studham Lane. Follow this uphill (Whipsnade Park is above you) and when you join another lane, go L, this brings you into Studham, where you turn L at the right hand bend SP to the church of St Mary. This track is now the Icknield Way Trail open to cyclists, walkers and horses. It goes in a northward direction, joining another Studham Lane – go L, this then brings you out in the village of Whipsnade. (The zoo is to the L down main road) This road is the B4540 which goes to the R to the church (Mary Magdalene, Mary Line, Stained glass, toilet) opposite the church a lane leads up the Chiltern Way/Icknield Way, there is an interesting Tree Cathedral to the L (National Trust, open dawn to dusk daily, free) keep R and follow the trail up over to join the alternative route into the cr park near the visitor centre of Dunstable Downs.

Alternatively for a main busy road route (you have been warned!) stay on the B489 for about 2miles, passing a roundabout next to the Traveller’s Rest Inn (01525 221841) at the next roundabout go R, and after ¼ mile turn L, this is a steep and narrow two-way road so take care. You can stay on this road all the way up to Whipsnade village (passing the zoo on the way) or turn into Bison Hill car park on the steep section and continue through the car park on the Icknield Way Path/Trail. (past notice board, towards kissing gate then R along hedge)There are several gates – you follow the shoulder of the hill, with amazing far-reaching views to the L; there is an airstrip below. Keep on in a NE direction until you join the other route at the car park of the Dunstable Downs Visitor Centre/Chiltern Gateway Centre (cafe, toilets, open 9.30-4pm daily)

Now go L on the busy B4541 which undulates somewhat before plunging downhill steeply into Dunstable (watch out for speedhump at bottom!). At the roundabout turn R on B489, there are shops and a cafe A505, a little further on the right you will see a turn off to St Peters Priory (Michael Line, 12thC, monumental frontage)

Carry on main road but only for a few hundred metres, a R turning just before a new-ish bridge takes you onto Cycle Route 606, next to a bus only lane. Around the corner this turns into a lovely wide cycleway with the countryside of Blows Down to your right, and a ‘greened’ bus way to your left. This continues for about 2 miles, passes over the M1 motorway, then carries on as a wide path next to the busy A5065 and brings you into Luton city centre.

Didcot to Chinnor 25 miles OS Explorer maps 170, 171.

The main road in Didcot is called Broadway, at a roundabout just after the library, turn R into Foxhall Road (B4493) after about 500m turn R by The Barn into Lydalls Road, shortly on the L you will find All Saints Church (Mary Line). This has a venerable yew tree outside the door – thought to be over 800 years old… There is an interesting 16thC house opposite.

You can cycle (with care) down the pathway to the right of the churchyard which will take you across a park back to the main road – otherwise retrace your steps to Foxhall Road and turn R, continue to the roundabout, go straight over and over the railway. The road bends sharply left and very soon a bridleway appears on the right, follow this down past the sewage works, then onto an industrial estate – keep straight on, soon you will reach a roundabout, go straight across (SP Hill Farm Only) keep on past Hill Farm and along to a railway crossing. When safe, cross and go left towards Appleford. When the road bends to the left, turn right and go past 16thC Holywell Cottage down to the 12thC Church of St Peter and Paul, a bridleway passes to the right of the church, this takes you across the fields beside the River Thames, known here as the Isis. Keep on, over a footbridge and L when you join another track, this brings you into the village of Long Wittenham, past the Pendon Museum (https://pendonmuseum.com/visit/) where diaramas of olden times can be seen. Keep straight on – joining the main village road, past the Plough Inn (01865 407738, open all day, food, rooms) the church of St Mary (Michael Line, St Michael at bottom of window above altar, lead font) can be found down a small lane between two medieval buildings on the left. Continue on main road to the corner and turn R for Little Wittenham.

If you need a campsite – or are an admirer of the book ‘Three Men In A Boat (as I am!) ignore the road to Little Wittenham and carry on along the main road to Clifton Hampden (½m). On your L just before the river is a lovely campsite (Bridge House Caravan and Campsite 01865 407725 bridgehousecpch@gmail.com) where you can camp right beside the Isis and hire a canoe if you wish. Great facilities and friendly owners. Just beside the campsite is the famed pub – The Barley Mow. Which featured in Jerome K Jeromes’s humorous book – “If you stay the night on land at Clifton, you cannot do better than put up at the “Barley Mow.” It is, without exception, I should say, the quaintest, most old-world inn up the river. It stands on the right of the bridge, quite away from the village. Its low-pitched gables and thatched roof and latticed windows give it quite a story-book appearance, while inside it is even still more once-upon-a-timeyfied.”

It is now owned by a chain, Chef and Brewer, but is still quaint and serves lovely food.

There is a shop and PO in the village over the river.

Unless you have abandoned your bicycle for a boat on the river… retrace your steps to the turning to Little Wittenham. This level road takes you past The Earth Trust – an environmental learning charity, at the T junction, the route goes L across the river, BUT – if you would like to visit Wittenham Clumps (Michael Line) and/or Castle Hill (Michael and Mary Line node) go R and take the next gateway on the left. (leave cycles) the footpath leads you up the steep hill to the Clumps, where you can carry on across to Castle Hill OR carry on cycling up the lane and you will come to a car park on the left with a shorter path to Castle Hill – they are also known as Sinodun Hills. There are fantastic views from here of the Thames stretching for miles and the delightful countryside through which you will ride!

Castle Hill and the River Isis

After your visit return down the lane – past a church and onto a bridleway – to the river. As you cross at Day’s lock there is a tiny campsite for walkers/cyclists/paddlers in summer (01865 407768) and the Poohsticks championships are held here…

Once the river is crossed take the bridleway that moves diagonally away from the river, it is narrow and bumpy. You pass the Dyke Hills an Iron Age earthwork as you continue, turning a sharp L along into Dorchester-On-Thames. The path emerges next to some allotments where many artefacts have been found including a beautiful Medusa brooch. Go R on Watling Lane and at the end, go L into Bridge End and keep L into Dorchester’s main High Street.

Dorchester-On-Thames:

A small place with a lot of history… Gravel pits to the north of the town conceal a neolithic sacred site with remains of a cursus, a woodhenge, barrows and possible wood circles… Then there are the Bronze Age and Iron Age camps at the Sinodun Hills, the Iron Age Dyke Hills by the confluence of the Thames and Thame rivers, then a vicus and road built by the Romans…

For today’s visitors the 12thC Abbey of St Peter and St Paul (Mary Line, Saxon remnants, 14thC wall paintings, lead font, tree of Jesse, dragons, green man…open 8-6/dusk, cafe some summer pms) is interesting as is the tiny but intriguing museum (open Easter – Sept, Wed/Thurs  11am – 5pm, Friday 11am-2pm, Sat/Sun/BH Mon 2pm – 5pm) both are free but wecome donations! There are several pubs and a tearoom in the small town as well as a Coop.

There is a campsite S of town at Shillingford (Bridge House Camping And Caravanning, 72 Wallingford Road, Shillingford 01865 858540 )

When you have finished your visit to Dorchester, leave the town by heading S on the main Henley Road. If the weather is good there is a lovely off-road section to come.

However if it has been very wet or you prefer road-riding then just continue onto the A4074, which does have a path beside it…down to Benson, at the roundabout turn L onto the B4009 and follow this through the village and on to join the main route in Watlington (about 5 miles, no side path!)

For the intrepid… follow Henley Road over the bridge, and take the next L SP Overy. The lane will soon turn into a track, follow across the field, under the A4074 Oxford Road via a messy underpass, then after a couple of hundred metres, turn R on a track called Priest’s Moor Lane, this brings you into Warborough, keep straight ahead on Hammer Lane, go L past the Village Hall to junction, and go R, take the very next L, before the church (shop on right) follow until lane peters out across the top of the cricket field, then it becomes a byway. Follow on and round bend to right (ignore Millenium Walk) path becomes bumpy. At Ladybrook Copse, keep right on the byway, then a little zigzag, then path turns R at corner of field (near Millenium Walk sign) go partway along the field edge and look for a gate to the L – the path leads straight across the open field towards a house and garden, where another gate lets you out onto the lane. You are now in the village of Berrick Salome. At the junction there is a pub to your R (The Chequers Inn, food, 01865 891118) but go straight across following the lane until it turns right (which takes you to St Helens Church, Mary Line, unusual font, piscina, wood-framed tower) a bridleway SP Brightwell Baldwin takes you straight on. You continue slightly uphill the track getting bumpier as you go. It is called Hollandtide Bottom and is quite an ancient route. After a mile or so it crosses a road, then follows the margin of a field, becoming less bumpy! Across a path and over field – it joins a wide track – but only for a short while, bearing L to the corner of the field where we go through a gate onto a narrow path and across another field to a gate in the right hand corner where we join a lane, then go R on another lane which brings us onto the road in Brightwell Baldwin. Go L and the church is on the L. (St Bartholemew, 13thC, Mary Line, epitaphs, ancient yew tree by entrance) A pub – the Nelson is opposite and provides food and rooms (01491 612497 )

The Statuesque Yew at Brightwell Baldwin.

Continue through the village till the road joins the B480, going R into Cuxham.

(If you wish to stay off-road – as the next couple of miles is a fairly busy road – you can go L almost straight away onto a bridleway, follow it around to the right, past Pyrton Heath House, and R again, skirting the hill back to Pyrton village, go R to rejoin the B4009 outside Watlington at crossroads.)

Or continue through Cuxham, the church of the Holy Rood (Mary Line) is down a lane to the right, there is a foodie pub/pizzeria on the left (Half Moon 01491 612165) Continue until you reach Watlington, where you join the B4009 at the edge of town, it turns sharp L through the centre. A lovely little town – it has lots of small shops, cafes, PO, library and pubs. There is a campsite (White Mark Farm, Hill Road, 01491 612 295, debbie.whitemarkfarm@yahoo.co.uk) about half a mile out of town – just turn R at the chip shop into Hill Road.

Keep on the B4009, there is a path at the side but it is weedy and unkempt… pass the crossroads to Pyrton, then about half a mile further is a L turn to Shirburn Castle – where you can visit the old estate church of All Saints (01491612333 for keyholder) or carry on along the main road until a left takes you into Lewknor. A pub The Leathern Bottle is on the L (01844 351482) and the church St Margarets is also on the left, behind the school. (12thC, Mary Line, font, tombs) Keep straight on going L on a track under the motorway (the Mary Line follows this route!), then past a Hotel/restaurant (01844 351496) to your R (a mile to the L down the busy A40 – or digress in Lewknor – Weston Road/Salt Lane, is a pub/cheap B&B called called England’s Rose. 01844 281383, may also do camping… info@englandsrosepub.co.uk)

Go straight across the junction – this will bring you to a L turn into Aston Rowant. The church of St Peter and St Paul is on the L (Mary Line, 13thC niches, brasses, memorials) From here you can retrace your steps to the main B4009 and follow it L to Chinnor. Or go to the L of the church where the lane turns into a track, after a few hundred metres where the track turns sharp L, go R on a bridleway that is the Lower Icknield Way. Across fields, a road, more fields and a ford (bridge at side!) it brings you into the back of Chinnor town.

Ford on the Icknield Way!

Avebury to Wantage 40 miles OS Maps 157, 170

From Avebury’s High Street, go R at the junction (pub on your L) onto A4361, at the next bend, go L onto B4003 which will take you parallel with the West Kennet Avenue.  A long hill takes you down passing the sentinel stones reminding us of our ancestors and the mysteries they still hold.  At the junction turn L for a brief ride on the A4, take the next R (SP to East Kennet) after 1/2 mile turn L through  East Kennet, past a B&B The Old Forge ( 01672 861686) into West Overton.  Keep R in the village towards Lockeridge.  (Lockeridge is (unusually) a planned Templar village! The Who’d A Thought It Pub, ale and food, open all day is to the L in village) At the  ‘T’ junction go R and immediately L up a small lane, keep L at the top and on through Clatford, then into Manton. At the end of the village where the road bends to the L (and leads to the Outside Chance pub…) go R, after a scant 1/2 mile just past a large mill-type building go L down through the churchyard of St Georges (Mary Line) keep on over a small river and you come out on the main road (A4) into Marlborough.

Marlborough:  Granted a Royal Charter by the infamous King John Marlborough has many historical buildings and is famed for its public school. This has a church St Michaels and All Angels (Michael Line) famed for its decoration. Behind the church stands an ancient mound dated to 2000bc conrtucted like an smaller Silbury Hill…. The town has a market on saturdays and wednesdays. There is a campsite nearby at Wernham Farm (01672 512236) There are many B&Bs and pubs in the town.

Follow the main road around to the R, over a roundabout and then over a river, then turn L on B3052, at the end go L and back over the river, then fork right which continues steeply up a hill. At the lights go R (SP Mildenhall) after a good half mile you leave the town, pass a left turn and then keep a sharp eye out for a small path leading off to the R – on an old railway bridge – take that small path down to the cycle route beneath the bridge.

If you need a campsite and a good pub, carry on another 

half mile into Mildenhall (pronounced Minal!), go R when you reach the village, down past the church you will find Church Farm Campsite (01672 513159 shower/w machine, eggs, level, quiet.) The nearby church of St John the Baptist is beautiful. Back upon the main road is the Horseshoe Inn (great food and ale, rooms, 01672 514725)

Returning to the narrow path down to the cycle route (if you have come from Mildenhall it is on your L) at the end of the path turn L and make your way along the delightful, quiet old railway path that wends northwards toward the Ogbournes, signed as Cycle Route 482.

After about one and a half miles, just before some cottages, a turn to the L takes you down to the main A346 (caution) turn R and go past the pub (Silks On The Downs 01672 841229 elegant dining – but also does coffee!) and take next L. In the village a sign points off L to the church of St Andrew (Michael and Mary Lines cross here…there is a bowl barrow in churchyard and sarsen stones used in fabric of church) Go through the churchyard to emerge on the far side, where you turn R down the lane, then L to again cross the busy A346 to rejoin the Cycle Route 482. In another mile the route rejoins a tarmac lane into Ogbourne St George, at the junction you have two choices…

Either turn R along Copse Drove which takes you through Woodsend into Aldbourne (http://aldbourne.net/ for info, shops, 2 pubs, heritage ctr.) Go L in the village and on up to the Church of St Michael (Michael Line) Take the no-through road to the right of the church – Crooked Corner, and just after the raised path peters out on the L, go L up the Byway. This leads all the way along Sugar Hill, passing barrows, tumuli and pillow mounds, until a lane joins from the R, take this past Manor Farm and under the motorway, it will bring you out to join the alternative route, just short of a crossroads by The Burj (an Indian restaurant 01793 791888) and a signpost saying two and a half miles to Bishopstone. (If you go awry, don’t worry, just take the next L and you will end up in the same place)

OR, go L and under the bridge, then straight away R onto the Ccle Route 482 again – unless you wish to visit the church in which case carry on (pub – The Inn With the Well 01672 841445, food, rooms) turn R past Parklands Hotel and Chop House (01672 841555 food, rooms) and a small local veg stall (!) go up the hill, down and turn R to churc of St George (very near Alignment) a peaceful, buccolic spot.

Ogbourne St George Church

Return to The Inn Wth the Well and turn L before bridge back onto Cycle Route 482. A lovely long straight cycle on the old Chiseldon railway track takes you several miles, parallel with the busy A346. When you come out onto a lane, go R, there is a Farm Shop and cafe on your right. (Three Trees 9.30-5.50 daily 10-4 suns) Go straight across main road – the lane is the Ridgeway and goes up and over past Liddington Castle Fort. At junction go R and immediately L, pass along under motorway, then to a crossroads opposite The Burj Indian restaurant where you rejoin the first option.

Go straight across and up the hill – the Ridgeway goes off to your right. You could take this route and visit Wayland’s Smithy, Uffington Castle and the White Horse, turn L at next lane down to the Blowing Stone to rejoin our route if you like.

But we stay on the lane along the Icknield Way into Bishopstone. It is a fascinating village with much to see. If you stay on the main lane until you get to the huge village pond, you can leave your cycles there and explore on foot. The church of St Mary (Mary Line, ancient clock, stone heads, tombs,) is on the north side of the village. Then walking south around the pond you can follow the ‘Prettiest Short Walk in Britain’ as described on the information board by the pond. The area SE of the pond is known as ‘The City’ and it is truly a beautiful ramble. Luscious gardens, chocolate-box cottages and if you digress up the valley – strip lynchets and a folly, which compliment the seven springs that The City is built on… A friendly local allowed us to fill our bottles from the spring in her garden. It is a tranquil place with a timeless air…

The Prettiest Short Walk…

You may be lucky enough to find the Royal Oak pub with organic food by Rachel Browning (of bacon fame!) and rooms (01793 790481)

From the pond stay on the main lane and carry on up around the corner to the right, then L – it is quite steep. Then it levels out as you go through Idstone and into Ashbury. At the junction go R past the Rose and Crown (food and rooms, (01793 710 222) Go straight across the crossroads (Wayland’s Smithy is up to your right) continue along the Ock valley, past Knighton and go L at next crossroads to Woolstone. Glancing up to the hills for a glimpse of the latest White Horse…or is it a dragon? (If you require a campsite stay instead on the road for another mile and Britchcombe Farm is on the R 01367 821022, cafe adj.)
A quick downhill plummet brings you around a corner – where you may wish to stop and admire a cup-marked stone on the right – marking the track up to All Saints church. Another ‘energy line’ passes through this stone – the ‘Elen Line’ referred to in ‘The Spine of Albion’ a fascinating book by Gary Biltcliffe and Caroline Hoare. (see links page) All Saints Church is also worth a look. (just follow track on R) It has a charming interior with several green men, an unusual font and a fascinating folder telling of all the local men who went off to serve in the Great War…

Continue through the village, (the pub The White Horse -predictably! to L, food, rooms, 01367 820726) Go L at a junction and past a curiously-built ‘roof house’ into the village of Uffington. At the corner you have the Tom Brown’s School Museum (Betjeman, White Horse, Tom Brown etc  museum@uffington.net Curator, Karen Pilcher, on 01367 820978) go R and entrance to St Mary’s church is on the L. Entry is via the small door on the south corner. (Mary Line, Elen Line, ancient clock, Thatcher memorials, yew, teas summer sunday afternoons) Carry on through the village, past the school, a road to the R leads to the pub (Fox and Hounds, food, rooms, dog-friendly, 01367 820680) carry on passing a recreation ground on the R, where you will find a shop and PO. Head straight on along Fawler Road towards Kingston Lisle. After you pass Fawler Manor look in the field on your L for a stone circle – which seems to be missing from listings, maybe a modern construct?

Up a short steep hill into Kingston Lisle. The road off to the L leads to the Blowing Stone pub (food, rooms, 01367 820 288) On the corner of that junction is the recently-renovated chapel of St John the Baptist which has lovely stained glass, wall paintings and a peaceful atmosphere.

Keep on the main lane and at a crossroads go straight over – just briefly! Up on your L by the cottages is the famous ‘Blowing Stone’, The stone was moved here in about 1750 but was said to have been positioned in the steep valley above Bishopstone –where, when blown, its loud noise would have been magnified by the setting… It has a large aperture which some people are able to blow to create a sound like a horn. (http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=6963)

Go back to the crossroads and turn R towards Wantage. Take the next L SP to Sparsholt. In the village you come to a T junction wwith the church ahead of you. The Holy Cross (Mary Line) has a disjointed look about it, but as it has 12thC fabric onwards and maybe some from earlier it can be forgiven. There is a lovely foliate head on a memorial inside the door on the left and in the south trancept a collection of three, very rare, wooden effigies, thought to be the Achard family of the 14C. But there is no info in the church…. and a rather neglected air…

When you leave the church go R, past a left turn to the pub (The Star, food, rooms, 01235 751 873) a sharpish bend to the left, and on into Childrey. As you go up the main street you will see a shop on the right, turn left down a small lane just before you reach the shop. Where the lane goes left, keep straight on – it is a byway and tarmacced, but narrow. But a lovely route across the valley with Red Kites wheeling above. A handy bench comes before you cross a road and continue past the site of a Roman villa, and into East Challow, past the school and then you rejoin the road. Go right up through the housing estate, L then R to main road B4507, it is busy and fast for half a mile until you reach the ’30mph’ speed signs! When you reach a set of traffic lights, go L – passing a bicycle shop on your left. You have now reached Wantage.

Trowbridge to Avebury: 24 miles OS Explorer Maps 156, 157.

Heading straight across Trowbridge Park takes you into the town centre. Go L then R through pedestrian area (dismount) on R corner Church Walk takes you (unsurprisingly) to the Church of St James (not on line, closed.) On the far side of the church is a junction, bear R and follow the main road (Union Street) at the roundabout go R on Islington Road, which becomes The Down, at next roundabout go L on Canal Road, pass Lidl and go R at roundabout, soon on L is Brick Lane – a small road with a Cycle Route 4 sign – although it leads through a lorry depot – so be cautious, through a vehicle barrier and then it joins the cycle path along the canal, go R. Travelling on the L side of the canal you pass a marina and there is a campsite off to the R at Marsh Farm after the town. (07460 816635) The Michael Line crosses the canal at the next road bridge. At the following road bridge if needed there is a pub, The Somerset Arms, off to the R (Mary Line v near, open all day, food, ale, rooms, 01380 870 067 somersetarms1@gmail.com)About a mile further on there is a community garden on the L which is a lovely place to stop and rest. Their pathway connects to the village of Bowerhill (shop/pub) where both the Michael and Mary Lines cross…Another mile of canal and there are two pubs to the R! The Barge Inn and The Brewery Inn (01380828463)At the next mile – if you are still thirsty…. a gateway leads L to Sells Green – The Three Magpies pub serves food and has a small campsite (01380 828389) also there is the Devizes Camping and Caravanning Club site ( 01380 828839 ) and even a small cider bar between the two! The MM Alignment passes through Sells Green…

The canal path soon swaps sides and a little further on a pathside house offers B&B and camping. (Foxhangers 01380 828254)

The path now goes gently uphill and locks start to appear. Then a long hill drags you up past the mighty Caen Locks set. Where much toing and froing of canal boats give canalside entertainment. At the top there is a small cafe on the L with stupendous views back into the distance. (open 10.30-3.30 hour later at weekends,01380 724880)

Caen Locks

Continue along towpath into Devizes. At the second long low bridge over, take exit up onto A342/Northgate Street and turn L into town centre.

Devizes:  There are hundreds of listed buildings, a rich medieval past and a central market area in the town. The Wadworth Brewery does tours. The Museum (in Long Street, open mon-sat 10am-5pm, suns/banks 12am-4pm, tourist info desk) is home to the Golden Treasures of Stonehenge and Avebury and is a real treat. (Tourist info 01380 727369)

Return to the canal after your interesting visit to Devizes. But go to the other side of the bridge as the towpath changes sides. Follow it along to the next bridge where it again switches sides. (by the Kennet and Avon Canal Museum, (open 10am-5pm, 4pm in winter +44(0)1380 721279 ) At the next bridge leave the path, cross the bridge and go through an old set of gates onto Quaker’s Walk. This lovely tree-lined bridleway takes us through the Roundway estate, northwards. (If you need supplies go R on small road you cross to Lidls and a bakery) After less than a mile the path continues through a field, but we keep right along the lane emerging onto Folly Lane, a tarmacced road. Go L here but make sure you take the next R (no through road) a little further on – you need to be heading uphill! Look up to the R at another White Horse. It gets very steep for a while, bear L at the fork and as you get to the top of the hill reward yourself with a pause to look at the stunning views. The road peters out into a stony track. At the end on the L there is a small car park in a copse. Leave your bikes here if you wish to visit Oliver’s Castle. (Michael Line, Mary Line and Alignment!) Go through the small wooden gate.

Oliver’s Castle is an Iron Age promontory fort set in a commanding position on Roundway Down. Its name is modern and comes from the fact that the Roundheads fought a battle nearby, but Cromwell did not attend. The views are spectacular and the whole pilgrimage route is visable in the landscape. There are a myriad of flowers here for the botanically minded. The deep folds of the Roundway Downs are a geographic marvel. Below is Mother Anthony’s Well and tumuli are scattered about. It is an ancient and enigmatic landscape.

Looking out from Oliver’s Castle

From the car park take the track opposite leading eastwards, which turns north after a short while. At the end go R and past a small farm, keep on this lane, heading generally east, across a meeting of tracks and then later across a road, the track then bends around the base of the hill and goes past Baltic Farm, before a while later spitting you out onto the busy A361. There are more tracks on the left that can avoid a little more main road, but they are deeply rutted and hard to navigate…I did but looked like a toad on a bicycle!

After a mile or so on the main road a track leads off L at a right-angle, and uphill. It leads through horse exercising areas. A short hill brings you out onto the A4, go R and after a hundred or so metres turn L into the drive of The Grange. A grassy track bears right along past Orange Stables and R again, still grassy until you spy ahead the first great stones of Avebury.

These huge stones are the remnants of the Beckhampton Avenue, keep to the right of the field and you will see the way in if you wish to visit. Then go straight on into the village of Avebury Trusloe. At road go left and then at the junction by Bray Cottage, go right, the road falters into a path, goes over a stream and well (look right for a view of Silbury Hill) before joining the lane past St James Church into Avebury itself. (Michael Line, Mary Line and Alignment)

Avebury: The largest stone circle in the world, the only one that has a pub within it! So many books have been written on this site and the wider landscape. Perhaps read Prehistoric Avebury by Aubrey Burl. For visitor info see https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/avebury There is a visitor centre, cafe, museum, the Manor House, the church (see the scallop shell on the Lychgate) as well as the stupendous stones themselves. Take the time to walk the circle, avenues and other features, it really is a fascinating place. See the Megalithic Portal for more info (http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=7)

Remaining stone on Beckhampton Avenue

Avebury Stones

Clouties at Avebury

A Cycle Route Along The Michael Mary Pilgrim’s Way

This is the first section of the cyclable Michael Mary Pilgrim’s Way  – a route following the ‘energy’ lines that twist across the UK from Cornwall to Norfolk, visiting sacred sites along the way. For more info read ‘The Sun and the Serpent’ by Hamish Miller and Paul Broadhurst and visit https://marymichaelpilgrimsway.org/

Carn Lês Boel to Penzance: (approx 15 miles) OS map 102

To get to the start of this pilgrimage route make your way to from Penzance to Polgigga on the B3315, turn L (SP Porthgwarra) a no-through road. After quarter of a mile turn R (SP Public Path) this is a bumpy track that narrows as it bends to the left. In spring it is blowsy with flowers: queen anne’s lace, bluebells, campion, foxgloves and buttercups – and zinging with bees and butterflies! The track leads around Bosistow Farm where at a small triangle you go L. Follow the track along past Faraway Cottage, through a gate, (perhaps leave cycles here?) then bear R

towards the headland of Carn lês Boel. The cliffs here are carpeted with pink thrift.

This windswept headland is where the Michael and Mary energy currents first ‘meet’ in the UK. They next do this at St Michael’s Mount…

Retrace your steps back to the junction with the B3315 and turn R along it. Take the first L (SP Crean) go down a hill past the school, keep R over a bridge and up hill through the peaceful hamlet of Crean. Turn L (B3283 SP St Buryan) take the next lane on the L. This ‘aside’ takes you up to the Holy Well of Alsia, too good to miss! After passing Alsia Mill Cottage, look out for steep stone steps on the L. (leave cycle /or you can take the next L up the driveway) cross the path and go over a wonky stile. Follow the path ahead along the wire fence and go through the gateway ahead, which leads down the side of a meadow. This is a beautiful and magical little valley, as you near the lower end a small path to your R takes you to the gated well. The Mary Line passes through here- as is evident from the peaceful and contented atmosphere…

Alsia Well Valley

Retrace your steps and cycle back down to the main road. Turn L for the short cycle into St Buryan.

The sinuous energy lines of Michael and Mary wind their way across the landscape, each passing through sites of note, stones, crosses, churches and wells. Sometimes they meet and cross at particular places thought to be sacred.

As they wend their way across the British Isles a straight ‘ley’ line can be drawn that traces their landfall in Cornwall at Carn lês Boel, and leaves our shores after ‘crossing’ with them on the site of St Margaret’s church in Hopton-On-Sea. Strangely, this ‘ley’ also crosses with both Michael and Mary at Burrow Mump, Glastonbury, Oliver’s Castle (by the White Horse), Avebury and Bury St Edmunds. The pattern in the landscape is like twin serpents writhing around a Caduceus…

St Buryan:

As you pedal into the village there is a well-stocked shop (with delicious home-made cake) and Post Office on your left, opposite is the pub, St Buryan Inn (serves food, 01736 810 385 hello@buryaninn.co.uk), turn L for public toilets, and at the far end of the village is a garage with shop on the right. The church is straight ahead. For Tower Park Campsite (from £13pn, 01736 810286 http://www.towerparkcamping.co.uk/) go to the L of the church, turn next L and it is on the R just outside the village. A new farm shop/cafe is soon to open a little further on from the campsite.

The 15thC church is built over the remnants of a 10thC church said to have been built by Athelstan (a Royal Peculiar) some arches of that date still remain by the altar. The circular churchyard incorporates the site of the 5thC oratory of St Buriana, now commemorated by a 10thC stone cross outside the main door. Inside, the most beautiful and vivid carved nave dado is a delight, with knotted vines twisted around fantastical creatures, golden birds, a blue cow and even a speckled unicorn! There is a handsome rood screen below. A lectern is made from the remnants of ancient bench ends, featuring two mermen. Hopefully others are secreted about the village after their destruction in 1814. Interesting notes give a geological history of the tourmaline-rich pillars. Used books are for sale.

There are now two alternatives: one of which means cycling along the busy, fast A30 for some of the way, but it visits one of the most wonderful sites in Cornwall – Boscawen-Ûn stone circle as well as the enigmatic Blind Fiddler. The Mary Line passes through the circle and the stone Fiddler.

The other way keeps to smaller roads and lanes and is far shorter.. it crosses the Michael Line and has a cafe – you makes your choice!

Mary to Paul – From St Buryan turn L by the church, take the next L, go past the campsite, then look out for a farm entrance lane on the left – if you go down it just 50 metres or so and look over the hedge to the R – you should see Trevorgan’s Stone in the field.

Trevorgan’s Stone

Back on the lane, when you come to a zig-zag corner, there is a new/soon to be Farm Shop/Cafe on the left, the Mary Line also swings in from the L. Take the track ahead of you (SP Bridlepath) past an electric sub station.

(If it is muddy underwheel, you can ignore this part, carry on along the lane to its junction with the A30 (admire the stone cross on the R) and turn R along the A30.

Otherwise carry on along the track through several fields, keeping the hedge to your L. It then bends widely to the R and you go through a gateway onto a concrete lane, turn L, go to farm and turn L to follow the track down to the A30.

Turn R onto A30, be watchful for fast traffic! Up a slight hill and when it levels out, look for a lay-by on the R with a sign about Boscowen-Un.  Stop there (leave cycle) and go through the stile, where a path takes you down past Creeg Tol, ( another ancient site) bear R and the circle of Boscawen-Un is ahead of you, over a stone stile by an elder tree…

This circle of nineteen stones, all of granite bar one, which is quartz, surrounds a ‘pointed’ stone set at an angle in the centre. This exhibits two axe head carvings. The pointed stone and the quartz stone are thought to predate the rest of the circle. (see The Megalithic Portal for more info)

The Mary Line comes through here .

Boscawen-ûn is a Cornish name derived from the elements bod, ‘dwelling or farmstead’ and scawen, ‘elder tree’. The suffix –un comes from goon, ‘downland or unenclosed pasture’.

 Boscawen-ûn is said to be one of the three Gorsedds, or Druid Meeting Places, of Britain. The Welsh Triads, dating back to around the 6th Century AD record ‘Boskawen of Dumnonia’.

Carry on along the A30 for about a mile, on a corner in a field (take care) to the L the Blind Fiddler standing stone can be seen. The Mary line also passes through here. Carry on down the road through Catchall, then as you go downhill through the hamlet of Drift, turn R. This narrow lane wends its way down to the B3315, turn L, then very next R, follow along into village of Paul, the church is on the left.

Michael to Paul – From St Buryan take the Newlyn road, second R after pub. The quiet lane goes mostly downhill, past Tregadgwith, then Penmennor Farm, look out on L by farmhouse for handsome stone cross.

A little further on just before Trewoof-wartha, the Michael Line crosses the lane. Continue to where the lane joins the B3315. Here is the Lamorna Pottery (01736 810330, potterylamorna@gmail.com) which has a cafe and B&B also.

(For mountain-bikers and masochists, just before the pottery a bridlepath leads off to the L. It is bumpy, rocky, muddy and narrow, but can lead you on an off road odyssey to bring you down Quarry Lane to the hamlet of Sheffield where we turn off to Paul.)

After the pottery turn L on the B3315, keep going until you reach the village of Sheffield, turn R here (SP Paul) at the bottom of the hill turn R to the church.

St Pol-de-Leon is an intriguing church. In the churchyard are the only Cornish lapidary inscriptions surviving, to the Cornish writers Boson. A memorial to Dolly Pentreath, the last native speaker of Cornish, was set up by Louis Bonaparte, a relative of Napoleon’s and a vicar here! And a large cross head is set onto the churchyard wall, seemingly atop a menhir…

Inside a quarry tiled floor and whitewashed walls and ceiling give a feeling of space and light. The Norman pillars lean drunkenly, perhaps victims of the fire set by Spanish invaders in 1595… Wooden box pews fill the nave and memorials line the walls, including one to the Penlee lifeboat crew.

A toilet and kitchen make it user-friendly.

The King’s Arms pub is opposite which serves food as well as providing rooms.

(01736 731224 ) The Mousehole Campsite is 500m away (07802 903073 )

Turn back along the lane away from the church/pub, to the east. Go past Trungle House.

(For an interesting diversion – abandon your bike for a few minutes, turn R up a small lane, which leads to a footpath, this is a delightful mini hollow way that leads you beneath a hawthorn bower up the hill. It used to lead to Penzance but as the path ahead has subsided into the quarry, it has now been truncated. There is a wonderful stone cattle grid at the end which will make you glad to not be on your bike! Return to Trundle House.

Keep going along the lane, (the Michael Line crosses again, he leaves via the quarry and sets off across to St Michael’s Mount!) take the next R, Gwavas Lane which zigzags down into Newlyn. When you reach the main road, turn L and follow the ‘acorn’ signs of the coast path. This is a little hit and miss as some parts are shared paths, some on road, and some cycleways. Keep your wits about you and the sea on your R and you cannot go far wrong.

Penzance Tourist Information ( 01736 335530 , opens at 10am) is opposite the railway station main entrance. There are myriad hotels and B&Bs, a youth hostel and campsites. Penzance Library offers free wifi/computer use and is open mon-fri 9am-5pm and sat mornings. It is in St John’s Hall at the west end of the main shopping street.

As you come along into Penzance you pass the magnificent, remodelled Lido baths (adult £5) on the R. To the left a road leads up to the locked, neglected church of St Mary, which the Mary Line passes through. It is worth visiting for the peaceful gardens (with picnic tables) and the statuary. If Penzance (‘Pens Sans’ – Holy headland) is new to you, go beyond the church where steps lead into Chapel Street, go L, the one way system is against you… you will find the 17thC Admiral Benbow pub, packed to the gills with booty from Cornish wrecks, The Turk’s head purported to date from 1233 when Turks invaded Penzance during the crusades, the oldest pub in Penzance it boasts a smugglers tunnel and used to have its own cell! Further along is the Egyptian House a strange 19thC creation. Go to the end where it joins the main shopping route – Market Jew Street ( a corruption of the Cornish for Thursday market!) and there is a statue of the chemist Humphrey Davy. In the last week of June don’t miss the pagan Golowan Festival.

The seaside route becomes one with the St Michael’s Way and skirts the sea along through Longrock (shops/pubs) with stunning views of the incomparable St Michael’s Mount, and on to Marazion, an arty village with plenty of cafes, shops and B&Bs. If you want to swim in the sea from a beach this is your last chance until the pilgrimage end at Hopton!

The Cornish name for St Michael’s Mount translated to ‘the grey rock in the wood’. Which may hark back to ancient times when the sea level was much lower. There are remains of a petrified forest on the bay floor. It was an important trading place for tin and bronze and there are remains of a roundhouse settlement. Many legends abound, such as that Joseph of Arimathea came here with the infant Jesus, that St Michael the Archangel was sighted here in 495AD and that a giant and his wife once lived on the island…

The Michael and Mary Lines cross on the western side of the isle. Before separately heading back to the mainland.

St Michael’s Mount info at https://www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk/plan-your-visit/ open everyday except Saturdays.

It is now under the National Trust, you can visit the castle, chapel and lovely garden, The chapel holds services on summer Sunday mornings. Cafe and restaurant too.

It is a tidal causeway – be careful!

Back to Marazion (Wheal Rodney Campsite up Gwallon Lane has hikers/cyclist pitches 01736 710605 ) follow the road through the busy village and to roundabout (just before reaching it the Michael Line passes obliquely across the road) Go R on A394 which although it is a busyish road, it has a small ‘hard shoulder’ useful to the cyclist and good visibility. Further on at the Perranuthnoe junction there is a large Chinese restaurant on the R, then a small vegetable stall on the L. You come into Rusudgeon village, a turning on the R (SP Trevean and Beares Den) takes you downhill to a lovely small eco-campsite with compost loos and upcycled buildings (07876682709 adsbeare@gmail.com). Rusudgeon has a very good food pub ‘The Packet,’ a garage with shop selling fresh bread/wine, and a chip shop. Just after the garage the Mary Line passes through the converted Methodist chapel on the L. In a few hundred metres you have a choice: stay on the main road for just over a mile, or if the traffic is heavy, turn L opposite the next turn to Higher Kenneggy (which also has a campsite 01736 763453  ) A track leads down to some cottages, bear right (there is supposed to be an inscribed stone ‘Germoe and Breague’, but I didn’t see it! The track (wide enough for a car) goes along Greenbury Down. I got quite lost – but if you ignore a left turn, ignore a path crossing the track, ignore the left to Greenberry Farm and then definitely take the next R which bends back to your right, (going straight on will end you up in a field…)you should come out, after a few bends – with some cottages to your R next to a lane leading back to the main road.(There is a pub, the Coach and Horses on the L of main road – if you are desperate!) Carry straight on, along another green lane, past Chywoon Farm. The lane brings you out at Newtown Farm (B&B 01736 761964 ) the farm sells pickles and jams from a stall by their back door. Follow the main road now, which has a path beside it, if traffic is heavy it would be sensible to use it – but give pedestrians the right-of-way.

Lovely views to the right and a level cycle bring you to the L turn (SP Germoe) a short hill up, then down and turn L to the beautiful church.

There are benches and a grassed area in front of the church. If you cross the lane and walk along a bit by the stream you will find the Holy Well beneath its iron grating, planted around with lovely shrubs. Nearby it is believed St Germoe had his oratory. The church itself is festooned with lichen – a sign of the clean and healthy air here. The porch has corner carvings of monkeys (!) and a lamb (?) As you enter the door look at the stone hinge that remains from the original door. A saxon font, poor plaques, stone carvings and even a harvest dolly give interest to this 12thC church. A peaceful place – the Mary Line runs the length of the nave… At the east of the churchyard a carved stone ediface is St Germoe’s Chair and to the west the gate has a ‘coffin rest’ where once the clergy checked that the incumbent was properly wrapped in a woollen shroud… Unusually there are no yews but a host of mature and stately ash trees instead.

From the church cycle back L to the lane and keep L. The lane undulates up, the Mary Line crossing it twice, at the junction in Balwest, turn L, go past the Methodist chapel, carry on past a wonderful thatched cottage called Castle Pencaire, further on a bridleway goes off to the R, but I would ignore it if I were you. I wish I had…

The lane continues, turn R at the junction, and keep on right till you arrive in Godolphin Cross. Sadly although the Mary Line passes through the church, the gate is bolted and signs say to keep out, it looks forlorn and unkempt… Adding to the misery the pub has been turned into a house, so no noticeable facilities here.

At the crossroads in Godolphin Cross, go straight over, passing the War Memorial on your right. If you are looking for a campsite, take the next R in half a mile (01736 762220 Lower Polladras cyclists/hikers £8-12) If not, carry on, crossing the B3302 and passing through Nancegollan (no facilities) over the B3033, another mile or so brings you into Porkellis, which has the Star Inn (yay! Good food, community shop/library). Pass to the left of the pub and a little further on on the L is a small public garden with bench and shade. Ride on through Carnkie, passing Rame Common on the L, a sharp left bend then leads over a bridge (look out on the bank to the L after Tretheague gateway – for a lovely carved cross) that brings you into Stithians. You pass a long row of stone houses then turn L (SP to the church) there are several stalls selling eggs and a village shop on the L. Further on is the Seven Stars Inn, opposite which is a public toilet and Wellness Centre. The church is past the school on the L.

St Stithian’s Church is 14th-15thC but built on an earlier 6thC chapel, it is unclear who or where St Stithian was. There is a coffin rest by the gate, a handsome cross and interesting headstones, set in a churchyard managed as wildflower meadows. The Mary Line runs the length of the church.

Take the lane opposite the church gate, passing sports fields an cricket club. Ignore the first L turn, but take the second L by a grassy triangle (SP Gwennap and Lanner).

Zigzag up, passing Seaureaugh Farm, making sure you take the next (no SP) turn R (opposite a bank with a public footpath sign) This will bring you down past some woods to a two-way road (SP Trobost pointing back the way you came) turn L and follow till you come to the busy A393. You need to cross straight over here (SP Bissoe/Perranwell. Not easy when busy, take care) After about a mile turn R (at crossroads) into Trewinnard Road, (SP Perranarworthal) At the next junction go straight across into Church Road. As you go along keep an eye out on the R for an unusual turnstile into a narrow lane (leave cycle) this leads downhill and across a lane, through a gateway (SP Bryer and Public FP to well) down some steep steps and on the L you will find a beautiful Holy Well dedicated to Cornwall’s own St Piran. It is set in someone’s garden so please be considerate.

Returning to Church Lane, carry on and the church of St Piran is just around the corner. It has the Mary Line travelling through it and some handsome stone chest tombs close by. The churchyard has some lovely plantings. If you carry on uphill past the church, you enter a bridleway that narrows to a path and brings you into the village of Perranwell, whose celebrated Holy Well was unfortunately destroyed by the Victorians… There is a shop and post office and a pub to the L. Turn R onto the road and it will lead you along to Perranwell Railway Station, a request stop. As you plummet down the hill, look out for the cycle path which crosses just before the bottom and turn R along it. This is the Mineral Tramways Cycle route that goes from Portreath on the north coast down to Devoran. Follow it along, at the end turn L then R and follow Greenbank Road into Devoran. Market Street leads uphill to the L and to the church (St John the Baptist and St Petroc) through which the Mary Line passes, but our route goes straight on, along Quay Street, past the village hall and surgery. At the end turn sharp L (Devoran quay ahead – no cycles!) and then sharp R. If you require refreshment The Old Quay pub is just above you – take the lane on the L. Afterwards meander along the shared use road that ghosts Restronguet Creek, a truly beautiful place. When you finish daydreaming about living here…. and you leave the creek behind, take a R turn (SP Goonpiper) that turns sharply back on you, a steep hill follows… but the views over the creek make it worthwhile! Further on a L turn is a shortcut through Feock – BUT, it is a steep hill down then a one way section against you at the end… it would be possible to dismount and walk the last bit with care. Otherwise stay on the main lane, ignoring a R to Restronguet Point and another to Loe Beach. You eventually come past the church, where the shortcut comes out, and head around Pill Creek.

If you are needing a good cafe which welcomes cyclists and walkers and dogs… then take the next L, past Trevilla Farm, and when you emerge onto the main road, go L for maybe quarter of a mile and the cafe (which also sells eggs and books) is on your R. When you leave go L to King Harry ferry.

If you forgo the cafe, then keep along the lane to the main road, turn R and trundle down past the National Trust gardens of Trelissick (01872 862090 ) to the King Harry Ferry (runs every day, all year 01872 862312)

I will post the next section when I have researched it. If you have any comments/info/advice/complaints – please leave them on here  – or email me on mojo105105@yahoo.com

Buen Camino!